How To Repair A Fried Quadcopter Motor
I'm trying to maintain my sanity, but I'thou but barely making information technology. So, I got my new ESC in the mail from eBay, after having my terminal 1 not put out enough amps to power both the motor and the servos. Then I got the ESC from the link below thinking a 30A 3A ESC would be ameliorate. Got everything soldered up and connected, it's all working great! Then I hooked upwardly the motor, and that'south when everything went to heck in a handbasket. Motor beeped equally expected, tried to program ESC, but every bit soon equally I moved the throttle stick from upwardly to down, the motor twitched a couple of times, fume started coming out and the internals got cherry-red hot before I could disconnect it. Now half of the coils in the motor are blackened. There was no prop on it, nothing to keep it from moving freely, I tested that before I continued it. I hateful, thankfully I bought 4 of the sale motors from Hobbyking, and so this 1 I guess I can write off. I merely, this is so frustrating. I went from having an ESC that wouldn't do anything, to an ESC that was nether powered, to now an ESC that fries my motor when powering up. Are people just throwing ESCs out there without actually testing them to make certain they work? Am I missing something HUGELY of import when I'm ownership these things? I get that I learned from the 1 amp helo ESCs that others had said worked. I exercise accept some 5g servos coming in, and so maybe I can make those ESCs work once more. I just really don't sympathize how all this is so friggin complicated. Now I'g wondering if the ESC and battery are trash after all that too :/ Will probably trash the ESC anyway afterward that.....
ESC - https://www.ebay.com/itm/Simonk-30AMP-30A-SimonK-Firmware-Brushless-ESC-w-3A-5V-BEC-For-DJI-F450-US/222626315134?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Motor - https://www.ebay.com/itm/12N14P-EMAX-MT1806-2280KV-Brushless-Motor-CW-CCW-for-RC-250mm-Mini-Quadcopter/303007514308?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=601942887505&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Battery - https://world wide web.ebay.com/itm/New-Zippy-Compact-1000mAh-3S-11-1V-35C-45C-Lipo-Bombardment-Pack-RC-XT60-XT-threescore-United states of america/131390821208?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:Information technology&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Here's some pictures of the burnt coils (and so I only burnt up almost 1/3 of the coils, not half similar I had originally suspected. And just for reference, I tested my battery with my new battery checker before hooking it up, it was at 81% across all cells. After this fiasco, I tested it again and now it's at 76% on all 3 cells. So, somehow this dumped 5% of the battery into the motor all at once. Not sure if that's enough to fry the battery or not....
Personally I refuse to buy anything on EBay unless I accept the risk that it will not be exactly as portrayed!
I use AliExpress, Hobbyking, or Bangood when obtaining motors and ESCs peculiarly and I e'er ensure that the Motor and ESC are compatible and able to support the installation I take in mind!
If you reside in the US purchase a motor/ESC combo from the FliteTest store as they stand behind what they sell!
Have fun!
Yeah I suppose that's what I'g going to have to do. Information technology's simply difficult for me to desire to spend $sixty+ on a power pack for each airplane when I idea I could go the parts for 1/iii of that other places. At this betoken I've probably spent that in ESCs and motors that are all for nothing.....
What prop are you lot turning?
Well, that's the matter, I never even put a prop on it. I had a 5x2.5 I bought locally, and merely got some 6x3s from eBay I only reamed out since hobbyking was sold out. But I wanted to make sure the motor was spinning the right style before I put a prop on it as I'd only soldered everything and hooked information technology up. I gave everything a good pull examination later on soldering and and then made sure everything was heat shrinked properly to avert whatever shorting out. Then I know the connections were adept, and that wasn't it. So it had to be there ESC since everything worked properly (as long as I didn't utilize the motor and servos at the same fourth dimension equally least) on my underpowered ESC.
I am genuinely sorry that you lot are having so many problems with your electronics. Y'all and I are similar in that I also source my electronics from other sites, as I like to get the all-time bargain possible. Most of the time I either shop Hobbyking for their option, or Amazon for their speed of delivery.
Did you possibly use mounting screws that were a little too long on your motor? If the screws bear on the coils they will cause a brusk.
I have four of these ESCs and havent had a trouble yet.
That'south the thing, I had a 12A ESC with 1A BEC that would power the motor just fine, it would power the servos just fine, information technology but didn't power them both at the same time earlier information technology cut out. And so I know the motor was working simply fine mounted how it was. Only figured I needed a few more amps to power both together, which I thought this ESC would practise. Simply man, was I ever wrong.....
I concord with the (as well long screw theory ) retrieve just because the motor turns freely doesn't mean the screws are not biding. the part of the motor that the screw will hit stays still so rotating the motor doesn't tell yous anything. you demand to put a light behind the motor and look through the little slot and watch the screw as you plow it in. that's the but fashion to know. Also, I noticed that on some motors where the three wires come out, if you lot utilise that pigsty the screw can cut into a wire and brusque out there too. I never apply that hole anymore.
When a IGBT fails, they fail on, and you get full bombardment voltage on one set of coils. Mosfets neglect open. If y'all know how to use a meter, DMM or otherwise, you lot tin can verify that or continuity to the positive bombardment pb across each 1 of the motor leads. Doesn't tell you anything except that the ESC is verified every bit bad. You Can test information technology before you trash annihilation else.
The amperage of the BEC in the ESC is what can crusade the servos to brownish out. That has nothing to practice with the ESC amperage.
You want an ESC with the aforementioned max amps simply with a larger BEC.
I'm guessing that the ESC was connected then that you were only getting connection on 2 phases. Non all three. This will cause twitching and the windings to estrus up. If the motor is small and the ESC is big, it may happen very fast as there is lots of power available.
Motors are pretty cheap but information technology is possible to rewind them too. I've been successful a few times.
Check the solder connections on the ESC. If in that location are no bad connections, toss it.
This is ignoring the fact that I was able to really run the mounted motor fine for several minutes on a previous ESC, which I take stated previously. If I hadn't been able to use the motor, I might agree with you. Only, the motor did spin perfectly under it'south own power, under both 2S and 3S batteries and nothing happened until I tried to use a servo, which overloaded the 1A BEC I didn't know was a trouble. It as well ran with a prop mounted after I got the direction spinning properly. The motor mountain screws were not touched at all betwixt the ESC changes, and under this ESC it didn't even attempt to turn. So no, information technology's not a spiral problem.
I've got ane more than I'chiliad going to try. Not going to utilize the same burnt up motor though. Going to call that i a loss. Going to endeavour 1 of the $v hobbyking motors. You can see the specs (most of them anyway, enough to count I recollect lol) in the picture. I bought this before I thought I knew what I was doing. Now I realize I all the same don't know, but at least I realize the physical size differences. It may still fit with the modernistic I made to the power pod thanks to Hai-Lee, just I'yard going to solder the ESC and motor all upwards and try it outside the aeroplane with the servo wires from the airplane sticking out before I become to that problem. Then if all goes well I'll mount the motor to the pod and see if information technology'll move and if that works, then I'll put a prop on information technology and see what happens. Then if all that works, I'll put it in the plane and try again. Hopefully I'm not back hither with more bad news. At this point I just want a win. I'm ready to fly my aeroplane dang information technology! Lol
Offset off, Don't surrender!
I too had a lot of trouble in the get-go because I was using some pretty cheap stuff...
https://forum.flitetest.com/index.php?threads/are-escs-consumable-items.53742/
Turns out I was doing a couple things incorrect.
I don't recollect a problem since I went to using separate BECs...
Or rather I don't apply the internal 1 if information technology is a "linear" one and not a switching one.
The linear ones are just garbage... (I've even started purchasing quad ESCs now because they don't have a BEC (that I would just replace anyhow.)
The other event I was having that burnt up a couple motors and ESCs was the bullet connectors...
You should really have to cram them together (tight fit) if they just slide in then they are too loose and that'due south an intermittent brusque merely waiting to happen.
You can certainly use the cheap stuff, only empathise their limitations, and only take them to about 60-80% of their rated chapters.
I had to cutting off the 2mm bullet plugs that came on the hobbyking motor equally I had previously soldered on 3.5mm ones from my beginning ESC. I didn't have any actress plugs at the time so I had just cutting the plug wires from the erstwhile ESC and soldered those onto the 40a ESC. Took a lot of solder to fill the cavity in the three.5mm plugs considering those tiny motor wires don't take up much room, fifty-fifty folded over and tinned. Merely I recollect the 3.5mm plugs make a much more solid connection than the 2mm plugs do. Kind of a pain to go them apart, just at to the lowest degree that ways it's a solid connection. Thanks for the advice though! 
Like @makattack mentioned, you lot cannot underestimate the value of the smokestopper.
I also concur with @Gazoo. From your clarification, you have connexion on two of three phazes. This is totally mutual and ofttimes indicates a broken or loose solder joint where the motor leads are connected to the solder pads on the ESC. It could likewise be an ESC timing issue, but IMO the solder joints are more common.
If your motor had drawn too many amps through the ESC, I recall the ESC would have fried.
I torched several ESCs a few years dorsum as well every bit a few motors and even a flying controller or ii. At present I don't. I employ a smokestopper whenever I get-go connect power to anything I merely soldered. It is one of the most valuable tools in my kit and use of this could very likely have saved your motor.
Lastly, NEVER push button a twitchy motor. Always cut throttle and inspect the solder joints at the ESC pads and check that whatsoever bullet connectors are non touching and shorting out the phazes.
I take plans all put together now and ready to wing, just charging upwards my 2s battery for it. I've got my 3s that'southward at 70% that I need to belch I may try and apply for a maiden to just to make certain it flies. Not certain I need to maiden it with that kinda ability though. But anyway, with this ane hooked up, the motor does twitch a petty when powered on until information technology links with the transmitter. Every time information technology beeps the motor twitches. And then I'm guessing that'due south normal. I think that's what the other motor was doing until it fried. So ignore that description of it being twitchy, it was plain interim like it was supposed to, until power was practical.
Then yep, aeroplane all put together, prop is turning the right style, I have power to servos and motor. Everything is working like information technology's supposed to I put the rudder on channel iv of the receiver and then it runs off the left stick, since that's how information technology would fly as a 4 channel. Was a suggestion of the former man at the local hobby shop proverb I might too get used to information technology now instead of having to teach myself how to fly once more when I move upwardly to 4 channel. Anyway, all is going well with this large ESC for now. Maiden will hopefully be my next new post
How To Repair A Fried Quadcopter Motor,
Source: https://forum.flitetest.com/index.php?threads/about-to-give-up-on-diy-fried-a-motor.59153/
Posted by: kempimind1946.blogspot.com
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